I could not resist buying this book, even though I am anadvanced sewer. I love Sarai’s aesthetic and made a few of her vintage-inspiredstyles before. I thought, yes, it is a beginner guide, but I wanted to have thepatterns featured in the book. Eventually, patterns are the reason why I amkeeping it. However, if you are a beginner, you may want to check out thecontent as well. Hope my review will help making your decision!
Seven chapters and five sewing projects guide readersthrough these fundamentals.
CHAPTER 1 – GettingStarted – covers usual tools & supplies, machine and hand stitches andprovides a few beginner lessons and tips. I liked how Sarai made a fewtechniques - inserting a zipper, or setting in a sleeve - sound and look sosimple. I wonder, however, whether setting in a sleeve – a dreaded step evenfor advanced sewers - should be at the very start of the book, but it’s not abig deal.
CHAPTER 2 – AThoughtful Plan – is one of my very favorites! This step is so oftenoverlooked by all sewers. It is so easy to get carried away by a beautifulfabric, not thinking about thoughtful editing of your wardrobe. Sarai coversthe process of planning with tips on whereto find inspiration, how to processit using moodboards, notebooks, sketchbooks, etc. She goes into individual style editing, inspired by your personality, your lifeand your shape. She finishes the chapter with some tips on developing a seasonal wardrobe plan and using personal croquis (a sketch of a garment on your figure) as afinal step before making a concrete sewing project.
CHAPTER 3 - A Precise Pattern – introduces thefirst sewing project – Meringue Skirt. (All her sewingprojects, including patterns she sells on her website, have very yummy namesand the styles in the book are no exception.). The chapter covers fabric preparation (pre-washing,pressing, graining techniques), workingwith a pattern, matching stripes orplaids, tracing and marking patternlines and cutting. Using all this information a beginnerseamstress should be able to make the Meringue Skirt in a wide range ofmaterials. The skirt has a scalloped hem– a cute detail and a great technique to learn! And I loved a simple blackversion of it featured further in the book. Instructions are detailed andinclude tips such as Fabric Selectionor Grading Seams.
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| Image: Coletterie |
CHAPTER 4 – AFantastic Fit . The author explains how a certain shape is achieved by using ease, darts and fullness. I likedhow she covered alternatives to the pattern style achieved through manipulationof darts or their elimination. Thefitting process includes MUSLIN MAKING AND ADJUSTMENT, yay! Finally, someonethought of explaining benefits of muslins in a book. No fast sewing here –Sarai aims at quality. Takingmeasurements is explained too briefly, but I understand the limitations of thebook. Information on measuring your body is just enough to move on.
Later in the Fit Chapter, the book lays down most commonfitting problems and offers a few alterations. I think this part is justscratching the surface. Judge yourself: alterations covered are: Torso length, Sway back, Hip width, Large or small waist and Bust fullness alteration. I would haveincluded shoulder slope adjustment as it is the first thing you should checkfor fit. Also, the fitting sequence is crucial and is not really covered in thebook. So, if you buy this book, make sure you do have a good fitting book aswell.
Also, I think that it would have been more logical if theFit chapter preceded the chapter with the first sewing project, but I hope abeginner seamstress would skim through chapters before taking on that skirt.
However, the PastilleDress – another sewing project – is a candy!
CHAPTER 5 – A BeautifulFabric – helps beginner seamstresses to think about fabric as a key factorin achieving a beautiful garment. Sarai covers main fabric qualities, such as stretch, texture, sheen, weight and drape. It is just enough information to make the reader think: Willmy fabric behave the way I want it to? Fibers are the next topic in the chapter with some very basicinformation. Weaves and knits are covered too. I would have added a sentence ortwo on the advantages of each weave, but, well… Interfacing, thread, needle types sections help choosecorrect notions. Print and Patternsgive an overview of most common types; and TrickyFabrics offers a few tips on working with Faux Fur, Denim, Velvet and Corduroy. I though this latter partwas too brief to be useful, actually…
This Chapter’s TruffleDress, however, is a beautifuland versatile project that offers you an opportunity to make it in differentfabrics changing the overall look and feel of the garment!
CHAPTER 6 – A FineFinish (another alliteration) – has a great bias tape tutorial, which was actually featured on Sarai’s blogColetterie. French Seam, Flat Felled,Serged and Pinked Seams round up the selection of seam finishes in the book. Some common lining choices are given aswell, but, again, not very helpful for a beginner trying to make a choice. Afew words on key features of each of the choices would help. Why silk charmeuseor not crepe de chine? The advantage of Bemberg Rayon over silk lining? (what isdurability?) I am not picking at the book – just trying to say that it wouldbenefit from more explanation, rather than lists, especially when it comes tofabric choices.
Again, the TuffyBlouse is sooo sweet! But it is cut on the bias! Where are the tips onhandling bias cuts? And suggested fabrics are chiffon, gorgette, lawn and silkcharmeuse!.. Instructions suggestpinning and stitching, and at this point I can only think of stretched orpuckered seams… Sarai may be more confident about her audience, but for me thisproject requires greater-than-average sewing skills.
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| Image: Coletterie |
CHAPTER 7 – KeepLearning – offers a list of useful resources and recommends a few websitesand blogs. It finishes with the Licorice dress – which, according to theauthor, combines all the principles from the book.
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| Image: Coletterie |
The Verdict:
Although there is some great content in the book, it would havebenefited from some thoughtful editing! Getting rid of some advanced orspecialized techniques (such as tricky fabrics, for example), and elaboratingon more crucial processes essential to make included projects, such as fittingand working with the bias.
Also, the author doesn’t cover pants or a jacket. On the other hand, dresses, skirts andblouses are Sarai’s specialty. She recently released a cigarette pant pattern –a Clover, which is relatively easy to fit and construct because of the use ofstretch fabric.
If you are a beginner,by all means, buy this book but make sure it is not you only reference. And docheck out Sarai’s blog Coletterie, which has by far more resources than thebook.
If you are anintermediate or advanced sewer with great appreciation of vintage-inspiredaesthetic, buy this book because of the patterns! No apron, postcard or tote sewing here, but a beautifulwardrobe! That is why it is worth every cent I paid for it.
I LOVE EVERY SINGLE STYLE IN THIS BEAUTIFULLY DESIGNED BOOK!
Readers, what about you? Did you order the book? Or are you going to? What's your opinion on it?
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